Is the unexamined chicken worth keeping?
By Gina Spadafori
March 17, 2010
My friend Sue was the first person I knew to have backyard chickens. That was almost 10 years ago, and I know she did it because she grew up in a rural area and missed having chickens around.
Her two hens, Maude and Roxie, were the first chickens I’d ever met, or at least had seen as individuals with their feathers on. They were gorgeous and friendly, their eggs delicious, and at that point I have to say, the bug bit.
I wanted chickens, though it would be a while before I’d pull everything together enough to get them.
About the same time as Sue got her chickens, my mom clipped an article for me from Martha Stewart’s magazine, about Ms. Stewart’s chickens, especially the “easter-eggers” who lay green- or blue-shelled eggs.
Looking back now, I suspect it was Martha Stewart who got interest in backyard chicken-keeping going. (Although it’s not new to Ms. Stewart: Check out this picture, from 1976!)
The Martha-ness of chicken-keeping continues, and in fact I laughed out loud at a story in the New York Times over the weekend tying chicken-keeping to the our endless media fascination with well-educated urban women who married well and opted to stay home to raise a family in a home ever-so-full of “Good Things” like Martha’s.
The dateline, predictably, was Berkeley (media shorthand for “silly liberals live here” just as “San Francisco” is shorthand for “Teh Gays, they so crazy!” and any dateline in the Deep South is meant to cue the banjo music — even though all that is just the laziest of stereotyping), and the picture with the story was beyond parody: A woman just over the line into middle age, her hair pulled back except for a few wispy escapees. She is dressed in a simple aubergine frock with a no doubt fair-trade shawl thrown artfully around her shoulders. Posed in front of a weathered structure accented with lovely old-fashioned rose vines, she holds in her arms a red hen, perhaps (and I’m guessing here), a New Hampshire Red. (Oh, and note in the background, pretty blue sheets on a clothesline.)
The woman is, the story said, one of a new breed: The Femivore. Bored with the drudgery of common child-raising and house-work, she has claimed the higher ground. No Wal-Mart eggs for her brood. Why, that would be as bad as getting the little ones into the wrong preschool.
And so is a social movement that is so much broader in scope and significance neatly categorized, mocked and dismissed. In the word of the NYT contributor, it’s all so very “precious.”
After I finished laughing, the whole thing pissed me off. Because increasingly, I find that the renewed interest in where our food comes from, what’s in it and the treatment of the animals we eat is being pushed — and I don’t think it’s an accident, by the way — into the frame of what silly liberals in precious places like Berkeley do.
Because real Americans, you see, can’t afford such silliness.
About the only thing I have with in common that Times-mocked “femivore” is a New Hampshire Red hen. I don’t trip merrily past organic cotton sheets fluttering in a pool of sunlight to an artfully weathered coop to feed my chickens — I tromp in my feed-store rubber boots and an oversized men’s shirt, a WSU College of Vet Med coat thrown on for warmth on cool mornings. My chickens live in a second-hand plastic storage unit, and they lay their eggs in plastic cat carriers picked up on Freecycle.
If the author of “
The Femivore’s Dilemma” had looked beyond her circle of Berkeley friends — say, by visiting the discussion forums at BackyardChickens.com instead of just reading a little about non-Berkeleyites in a book — she’d have found the real story more wide-reaching. The new (and not-so-new) chicken-keepers are both men and women, young and old, rural and urban poor to the affluent, politically liberal to conservative religious home-schoolers — all involved in learning more about the food we eat, growing and saving what we can ourselves and re-learning the virtues of thrift (not “cheap” imported goods, but self-denial and value) and self-determination.
This is not about elite “foodies” with too much time and money — although I gotta tell you, real food tastes a lot better than the crap that gets extruded through the processors of Food Inc. — but about more people realizing that it’s healthy and flat-out satisfying to grow and to know your food. To trade veggies, chickens and eggs with friends and family, to put away good food for the winter, to support honest-to-God family farmers who respect their land and their animals, and who welcome you for a visit on their property or shake your hand in greeting at the farmers market.
And by the way: The Slow Food movement’s motto isn’t “expensive food for rich people,” but rather: “Good, clean and fair food.” For everyone.
My food expenditure is actually lower with gardening, chickens and buying local, regional and sustainable product from people I can get on the phone, or visit in person. That’s not because my food is “cheaper” — it’s certainly not, item by item — but because my diet now relies far more on vegetables, little on meat and not at all on “snacks.” Also lower is my weight, my blood sugar and my blood pressure. (That last might be because I no longer worry about melamine in anything I eat, or if any other crap put in my food legally or illegally is toxic.)
When gardening, chicken-keeping and buying food you can recognize from people you can talk to yourself is framed as something only rich liberals from Berkeley or Santa Monica or maybe the hippest parts of the new Brooklyn urban paradise would do, it pushes people who could most use real food — rural and urban poor — away from empowering themselves by growing and raising food themselves and changing their diets to match. Where do they go? Towards continuing to choose crap off the “value” menu at the fast-food chain, where the higher costs are paid in a lifetime of the fallout of poor nutrition.
That’s the true story of chickens, not aubergine frocks and bored Berkeley housewives.
***
Meanwhile, back on the microfarm …
My neighbor Judy and I “balanced” our flocks last week, trading chickens back and forth to better get the flocks we each preferred, and making our overall flocks smaller by selling some of our extras. We aren’t raising any chicks this year, since all our hens are young and laying like crazy, but next year, who knows?
We were both getting three dozen or more eggs a week, and that’s a lot. So I decided to part with my Plymouth Rock and Black Australorp, and Judy pulled three of her Red Stars — all five steady layers, and all about a year old. We sold them to a couple in the county east of us, who had a coop ready but were looking for healthy young layers to get them a jump-start on eggs.
After a week, the report back is rosy: The five hens are happy and laying like mad in their beautiful new digs, and their new family is hooked on chickens.
That just makes me happy, I gotta say.
Images, from the top:
Martha Stewart and her eggs. The green and blue eggs — and the chickens who produce them — are so identified with Ms. Stewart now than they’re often just called “Marthas.”
An incredible find — and a more incredible gift! — from regular reader Susan Fox, who included one of her own gorgeous chicken cards, which I’m framing for the office. I’m going through the publication she sent me page by page now, and wow, fascinating.
New digs for the hens Judy and I sold. Lucky chickens!

It has been three years since the world changed for pet owners. That was when we first heard about the Menu pet food recall, which ended up being the largest consumer recall in U.S. history, as well as the tip of the iceberg on a food safety crisis that continues to this day.

