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Rescue pets: How do you know when it’s ‘right’?
By Gina Spadafori
January 16, 2010
Dr. Becker and I got an e-mail from one of the readers of our syndicated newspaper pet page. Instead of answering this reader directly, I decided to throw the discussion open, because I have a good feeling there’s a lot of wisdom to be shared her. I sent the reader an e-mail back asking her to watch and join in the discussion. Let’s help her and her husband find the perfect dog to adopt!
My beloved dog died in November. He was the greatest dog ever and I miss him terribly. Toby was a rescue grabbed from the jaws of death from our city shelter. He was a mess, emotionally and physically.
So of course, since mid-December I have been scouring local shelters and on-line rescue groups for another dog to become part of our family. After numbing hours staring at 1×1 inch pictures on a computer screen, drives to rescue events, telephone calls, and an aborted adoption (the little fellow nearly castrated my husband), I am discouraged and confused. I believe the rescue groups have a huge task at hand and are well meaning, but how do I pick a good rescue dog? Many of the dogs have been saved from horrible situations where nutrition, warmth and human companionship were totally lacking. After a bath, haircut and transition to a new home or shelter situation, it must be hard for a dog to put their best face on for potential adopters. I also think some rescuers are so enthusiastic about their mission, that they may offer/adopt out dogs that have very little chance of success.
Where does this all leave me? How do I judge whether a(n adult) dog will be a good family member when they’ve been shifted around, slept in a strange bed, and lost companions? How can I tell if a firm, calm, loving hand will turn them around? I want to get beyond a dog’s looks, size, bark, and coat and judge their character and nature. How do I do this? Our recent aborted adoption was from a rescue group where the dogs were housed at a kennel, but received human attention and walks. The dog had not demonstrated any aggression until it lunged at my husband. This weekend I will go and visit a rescue taken from a farm in Northern California where the owner had 51 dogs on his property with no human contact. This dog had not been walked or bathed or petted until a few weeks ago and yet the foster mom says she is the sweetest dog and very willing to learn and be a house dog.
I want to get a rescue dog, but what responsibility do these rescue groups have? The fees are no longer incidental ($400 in this case). Are some groups more reputable than others? I understand these are living creatures and do not come with any guarantees, but any guidance you could give me would be welcome.
Got it? Assignment New Dog. Fingers on they keyboards, and let’s help.
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First of all you should try looking for a rescue that uses foster homes. That way the dog has been in an actual home situation and the rescue has some idea to how it’s going to react. Second of all, you should find a rescue that does foster to adopt. In that case you keep the dog for a month or so and see how it goes. If it doesn’t work out you return the dog to the rescue.
Comment by S — January 16, 2010 @ 9:06 am
Foster homes were going to be my first suggestion too, but if you go to a shelter, go to one that has adoption areas that are home-like, and one that uses some sort of “matchmaking” system like Canine-ality for dogs and Feline-ality for cats (http://www.aspca.org/adoption/meet-your-match/).
Comment by Christie Keith — January 16, 2010 @ 10:28 am
There are so many facets to this. We have been lucky and had smooth experiences, so I don’t have a huge amount of advice, but here’s what happened, FWIW.
We’ve had two rescue dogs, and in both cases the dogs chose us. The first time, we went to the kennel where the dogs were being fostered. Several of them ran up to us, checked us out and ran off. We went home with the one who stayed and she was perfect.
Same deal the second time. She jumped in my lap and didn’t move for three hours except to switch to Jerry’s lap. We discovered after we got her home that she was shy and a barker, but over the years she has improved in both areas.
I interviewed Francis Battista of Best Friends yesterday and his advice was to work with a shelter/rescue group that you know will be there for you with advice on how to deal with training problems or other issues.
And for after you get your new dog home, just be consistent and set some ground rules from day one so the dog has some structure for building his new life.
Comment by Kim Thornton — January 16, 2010 @ 10:43 am
Wow.
First — $400 for a rescue dog that has been “flipped” in a few weeks?
I’d look elsewhere.
I’m going to address assessing rescue groups here first, because I don’t have a lot of time this morning, and because you’ve opened up a huge topic that will get lots of good advice from different quarters.
The short answer is, yes, some groups are more “reputable” than others. It is a cold reality that there are many rescue groups that are entirely governed by the hearts of their leaders and personnel, with no brakes or steering provided by cool-thinking heads.
I carry permanent scars because of the sentimentality of one such breed rescue group, which placed a dog that should have never walked out the door with some very nice, very diligent people who did not know what they were getting — but quickly started to worry, thank heavens, and sought professional help. I am thankful every day that this potentially lethal dog chose me as his first earnest target since being adopted out — not the new adopters’ grandchild, or any person who was caught unprepared and unable to defend himself.
This is not meant to frighten you about adopting a dog. 95% (or more) of rescue dogs are NOT dangerous, contrary to the Sternberg-esque alarmism one is sometimes exposed to. However, that does not mean that they are all a good match for your home, which is what you asked.
It is meant to guide you when checking out rescue organizations, before you check out their dogs. I recommend that you speak to a representative of a rescue group about their philosophies and practices before you ever inquire about a specific dog.
Ask them about their criteria for intake of dogs — how do they evaluate the dogs on intake? This will vary depending on whether the group is a regional or national breed-specific or other focused rescue, or a local all-breed, all-type rescue that may work with specific pounds or shelters. The latter should have more opportunities to evaluate on intake. The former will likely need to do their behavioral evaluations while the dogs are in foster care. But what should send you elsewhere is a degree of sentimentality that translates to “we take in the ones that make us sad.”
Ask them about their foster program. What do they ask of their foster volunteers, in terms of working with the dogs and reporting back? Do they have criteria for declaring a dog adoptable, and if so, what is it? It sounds as if the groups you’ve had contact with have no such criteria, and are trying to flip very behaviorally challenged animals into adoptive homes without any meaningful transition.
Part of fostering is exposing dogs to challenging situations — basically, looking for the dogs’ buttons and gently pushing them to see if they connect to anything undesirable. Only then can potential problems be assessed and addressed. Your husband-altering potential adoptee who “never did anything like that before” had probably not been assessed in this way.
Puppymill and hoarder survivors need to be worked with before they can be made suitable for adoption, or even determined to be so. Now, that doesn’t mean that some of these dogs can’t be adopted out to experienced people looking for a project dog — essentially, adopters who do the job of a foster volunteer. But those adopters are the exception, not the rule.
See what kind of questions they ask you. A rescue group, like an ethical breeder, should have more questions for you than you have for them. Those questions should be aimed at making a good match, not just weeding out evil-doers. the rescue group should show concern for meeting your needs as a pet owner, not just the dog’s needs.
A major danger sign is any organization that is in a constant state of crisis — whether that means that they are always just about to run out of money, or sending out red-letter alerts about yet another dog or set of dogs that is going to die tomorrow. This indicates leadership that is unable to set boundaries and priorities, stick to a mission, triage rationally. They are not going to make good decisions, and you can be the one who suffers for panic-driven choices. Chronic adrenaline poisoning robs people of all perspective.
It really sounds as if you have hit a series of rescues whose priorities are moving dogs as quickly as possible and perhaps appealing to adopter sentimentality, rather than making successful, permanent matches that work well for the dogs, the adopters, and the communities in which both live.
Now, this is not to say that you can’t get a great dog from a dysfunctional organization. But there are great dogs available from organizations that do a wonderful job of screening dogs, meeting their medical and behavioral needs while they are in foster, and matching with the right, well-screened homes. The dogs are all morally equal. But the best way to encourage good management of rescue groups is to vote with your adoption (and your charity dollars) for good organizational management, rational intake and adoption policies, and responsible screening and assessment.
My last word this morning, since I gotta go, is to refer you to two articles here:
http://www.fortunatek9.com/articles.htm
Please, before adopting, read “The Abuse Excuse” and “The Behavioral Bends.” Both are now required reading for our NESR adopters. Because adopters — who are also powered by their hearts — also need to be steered by their heads if they are to do right by their dogs.
Comment by H. Houlahan — January 16, 2010 @ 10:58 am
I’ve been fostering for Homeward Bound in Northern California for the past year (I’m on my 8th foster dog), and I’ve adopted three dogs from them. Many of these dogs have had challenges—having had minimal human contact (they were breeder dogs or dogs in seriously neglectful situations). Without exception, they have all been wonderful adoptable dogs. I would describe all of them in the same way that the dog in this post was described, as sweet and willing to learn (I’d also add some things about their issues, however.) Despite my experience, I find this a very difficult question to answer.
There really aren’t any easy answers here. The dog I get to foster on day one is not the same dog six months down the line—or a year down the line. I try to be as honest as possible with potential adopters about the dog’s issues—that many of these dogs will be “project” dogs. I might even seem rather discouraging to some. I want the potential adopter to know what he/she is getting into, at least to some extent (I seriously underestimated some of the most challenging and rewarding things I have done in my life—and I’m glad I did; otherwise I wouldn’t have attempted them!) I don’t want the dog returned either—undersocialized/neglected dogss can be further traumatized by bouncing from home to home, even loving homes.
This is complicated by the fact that the adopter often doesn’t see the “real” dog as I understand that dog. When I bring even an outgoing, well adjusted foster puppy back to the sanctuary to meet people, he often turns indifferent to people, distracted by the smells and the activity of an unfamiliar place.
To some extent, the adoption has to be a leap of faith—whether from the pound, a rescue, a breeder (just as having a baby is). Of course, you try to be as prepared as possible, but there is always a large element of the unknown. That’s true for me, too, every time I bring a foster dog home.
Rescue organizations do vary a lot. Some are basicially a loose network of a handful of committed people; some (like Homeward Bound) are very large organizations (but usually run by volunteers). I don’t find $400 unreasonable—there are tremendous costs (veterinary in particular) associated with rescue, even with a lot of “free” volunteer work. But most “reputable” rescues will understand that matches don’t always work, even with good faith on both sides; they will refund the money and/or work with adoptees to find another match.
Comment by Arlene — January 16, 2010 @ 11:41 am
I would suggest a shelter for the following reason. The average age of a dog in a shelter is about 2 years old. And most have not been surrendered for anything related to the dog him or herself.
In other words, the vast majority of dogs in shelters — upwards of roughly 80% — have absolutely nothing “wrong” with them. Another 10% or so may have come in with either medical or behavior issues, but if they are medical, they were likely resolved before adoption and if behavior, it should indicate that on the dog’s history for the adopter to make an informed choice regarding rehabilitation or prognosis.
There is a great misperception that dogs in shelters are damaged goods, which isn’t true. That is what Maddie’s Fund is trying to overcome with the Shelter Pet Project (help me here, Christie!).
I think if she visits a few shelters, she’ll young, squigly, eager to please dogs. She’ll see very nice middle-aged dogs who know a thing or two because they’ve been around the block. And she’ll see senior dogs worth their weight in gold.
She’ll also see some traumatized animals who need a break and if her heart goes out to them, more power to her.
Chihuahuas (or, as too many people write on their surrender forms, “chiwawa”), labs, Sheps, pitties, boxers, JRTs, you name it, she’ll find one that steals her heart.
Comment by Nathan Winograd — January 16, 2010 @ 12:05 pm
OK, at the risk of sounding overly Oprahian, here goes: Do not discount the power of serendipity, or that of your own intuition. By all means, take every practical measure possible to facilitate a good match from the right place, but then, check in with your heart, before you take the dog home.
Find a quiet place to be alone with the dog, away from all well-meaning humans. ALL humans. Sit quietly, and take a deep breath. Do a gut check; listen to what YOU have to say, about the dog, about its background, about the shelter/rescue. If in doubt, walk away and come back later, be it the next day, week, or only after a cup of coffee and a walk around the block. If still in doubt, keep searching, and have a little faith that the right one will come along.
It worked for me. I’ve had four shelter dogs. The first two have passed on from old age; the second two are now themselves elderly, and are sleeping at my feet. None were/are perfect, although a couple were close. One turned out to be a project - a lifelong one, at that. But I might just love him the most.
Comment by Rori — January 16, 2010 @ 12:26 pm
I think the writer of the initial email may want to give herself and her family a little more breathing time/room before finding another fur friend. This may actually help with the process of finding another dog. (Kind of a variation on the “When the student is ready, the teacher will appear” theme.)
The previous posts have a lot of good suggestions regarding rescues and shelters. There is not much that I can add except that she should try go with a rescue/shelter that tries to find the “right match” for her family situation. Also look at potential “support” that the rescue/shelter can provide if there are any behavioral issues or other “surprises” with the new family member.
In terms of fees, adoption fees should be moderate for the area and breed involved (if appropriate). Sometimes transportion fees and medical costs will increase the adoption fees. Most rescues/shelters rely upon a system of donations and volunteers to sustain opertions, but there are always costs involved. These may vary by region and situation.
Comment by glock — January 16, 2010 @ 12:36 pm
Over on Smartdogs, Janeen has written a very good piece on what to avoid.
Comment by Gina Spadafori — January 16, 2010 @ 12:43 pm
There is a great misperception that dogs in shelters are damaged goods, which isn’t true. That is what Maddie’s Fund is trying to overcome with the Shelter Pet Project (help me here, Christie!).
Yes, and I absolutely agree that the vast majority of shelter dogs require no more training (only for them we call it “rehab”) than the average puppy.
The problem isn’t the dogs, it’s the GROUPS and SHELTERS. They don’t all have equally good adoption programs, and I’ve noticed a lot of potential adopters get sort of paralyzed by a thought process a bit like this:
“I don’t want to go to a “no-kill” shelter or one that’s well-funded and really nice, because those dogs are already saved, and the ones in the horrible facility may die and need saving more desperately.”
Not saying this adopter is doing that, just saying — I see it a lot.
So my general advice is to rely on shelters or rescue groups that use home-based foster programs, so you can talk to someone who has really truly LIVED WITH the dog, and to allow themselves to choose a dog from a well-run shelter with a good adoption counseling program, because that will free up space for THAT facility to take in a dog who might need the resources they have that the original facility did not.
So everyone wins. You get the benefit of a well-run adoption program and a dog about whom you can get more information about how he is in a home or a quieter more home-like shelter, the dog gets a good home that sticks, and some other dog in a crowded facility gets a chance at a better life.
On the other hand, there are tons of great dogs sitting in run-of-the-mill shelters right now, and picking the right one and helping adapt to your home doesn’t have to be complicated. But with a “once burned” adopter like this, I would stack the deck a bit.
Comment by Christie Keith — January 16, 2010 @ 12:47 pm
I have rescued over 30 animals. What I have found is it takes time and patience. The last rescue dog had been in four shelters and several foster homes. It took three months to learn his name. I’ve learned to start training them immediately with basic sit, stay, and down commands. I also crate them right away. Rescue dogs seem to sleep better in a crate at night. I put them on a routine. And I play with them. You may try working with a Vet to find a rescue dog. My Vet works with rescue groups. My Vet had worked with this last dog and knew he was a good dog. It’s taken six months, however, he is fitting in nicely and ready for more advanced training.
Comment by Karen Spencer — January 16, 2010 @ 12:52 pm
Karen, honestly, the majority of dogs in shelters and rescue groups do NOT need six months of training just to be ready to REALLY start training! Most of them are just a bit rambunctious and need basic manners, just like a puppy does.
Total blessings to adopters like you who want to take on the more challenging dogs, but it’s not accurate nor fair to the majority of bouncy shelter dogs to suggest this is the norm. I honestly don’t see that it is.
Comment by Christie Keith — January 16, 2010 @ 1:11 pm
I’, just wondering, because it wasn’t included in the info, if the adopter is maybe trying to get another dog that reminds her of her old dog. The reason I ask is that if she’s focussing on trying to replicate her experiences, which were great with the old dog, she’s not going to find the same dog. I hate sounding harsh, and I don’t want to be misunderstood, but 1) she needs to take more time to figure out where to look for her new best friend (and the advice already given about investigating shelters/rescues is excellent), and 2) she should widen her scope on what kind of dog she’s willing to ‘interview.’
As I said, I don’t know that she is only looking at dogs that remind her of her old dog - she may not be. But if she is, it might be helpful to try something different, to come at the situation with fresh eyes and attitude. I don’t know if the picture above is one of her dog, but if it is, maybe she could investigate standard poodles, or greyhounds, or a shelties (I’m just throwing out dogs that don’t look like that one), so she really starts fresh in her search. It may be that none of those breeds (or mixes therof) will fit her lifestyle, but maybe they (or one of the several dozen more numerous breeds/mixes in shelters/rescues) will.
Comment by KateH — January 16, 2010 @ 1:29 pm
Very admirable for you to go after a rescue dog! They sure do need that extra care and attention. So great that you’re willing to offer it! Good luck in your search for a new companion and my condolences on the loss of Toby.
Comment by Angela — January 16, 2010 @ 2:44 pm
I rescue feral cats, so I’m not an expert, but I think if someone is looking for a rescue dog but one without issues, please consider adopting the pet of a senior citizen that has passed away or been forced to move into assisted living (and thus cannot take the pet with him/her).
Many come into local shelters just because no one else in the family can take the animal. Most are older pets who have been wonderful life-long companions, but because they are “older” they are over looked. Offering a good home to a beloved pet would be a great thing for both the pet and their person.
Of course, it will take that pet time to adjust to a new living situation, but this should be a good option for someone who is perhaps questioning the wisdom of a “shelter dog.”
Comment by Sharon — January 16, 2010 @ 3:05 pm
The piece of advice I have for this person is to research breed tendencies. That is one way to narrow down the list of acceptable candidates. :-)
I’ve fostered two dogs that were successfully placed. In each case, the people knew exactly what they were looking for when they contacted rescue. Both placements were very serendipitous in that the dogs came in, were shined up and evaluated and the adopters appeared shortly thereafter and were evaluated and matches were made. I keep in touch with both and everyone is still happy. I believe in serendipity. Sometimes you just can’t force something to happen.
And, yes, $400 is waaaaay too much for a rescue dog!
Comment by Deanna — January 16, 2010 @ 4:06 pm
Another suggestion: if you like your former dog’s vet, go to them. It’s almost guaranteed that the dogs that they are helping to get placed are of good temperament. (It’d be bad for business otherwise.)
Comment by Deanna — January 16, 2010 @ 4:11 pm
Kudos to the reader and her husband for their desire to adopt a rescue!!
Lots of great suggestions offered above. I’d add asking local friends where they adopted their pets — she may find a nearby shelter with a good adoption program.
I’ve adopted 2 pets (1 dog, 1 cat) from Connecticut Humane Society and have been impressed with their commitment to ensuring a good fit between the pet and prospective pet parent.
Comment by karen — January 16, 2010 @ 4:45 pm
I go along with the comments made by KateH. It was my first thought also when I began reading this. Maybe she is trying too hard to replicate her beloved pet and therein lies the difficulties.
Comment by VJ — January 16, 2010 @ 4:58 pm
My first thought also was maybe they aren’t ready for a new dog yet. As far as the aggression towards her husband,he probably reminded the dog in some way of a past bad experience. It could have been as simple as the same cologne,the newly adopted dog was already stressed & in a new & scary situation. The suggestion to look for an older pet is a good one. There are so many that get passed over because of age, yet would make great pets. $400 is steep in my opinion & I do think checking with the vet would help.
Comment by Leslie K — January 16, 2010 @ 5:46 pm
Just want to share my recent experience because I had the same concerns.
I just adopted my rescue dog last april from http://www.strayfromtheheart.org.
This particular dog was brought in from Puerto Rico (they have a program with a shelter there). First, I fostered it, with first option to adopt it. Like you I was afraid…what if it did not work out. Little Rosie is fantasic! She is the BEST dog I ever had. The adoption fee was $250. The founder of the organization did a home visit the week before and really went though a lot of important info about vet care and food etc…
Maybe align yourself with one or two organizations and meet with the adoption counselor. Tell them what you are looking for so Instead of running around, they can call you when they have a fit for you. Now mind you, the big shelters probably won’t do this but the smaller rescue groups who rely on foster home probably will.
The founder of Strayfromtheheart.org (her name is Toni) once told me that some dog’s pictures aren’t even up yet but she already knows about the dog already.
hope you find your best friend soon!
Comment by smallbynature — January 16, 2010 @ 6:23 pm
I don’t have a problem with the amount charged. I have problem if the amount is unjustified.
I agree with H. if the dog was truly essentially raised feral, and has only been in foster care a few weeks, then it’s not enough time to begin to get her acclimated and ready for full time family life.
Personally, I rather take my chances on a 125.00 pound pooch who was friendly and outgoing.
Our rescue charges vary, a lot. An old or infirm dogs or dogs with ongoing issues will be placed for low fees, sometimes with a supply of medication included. Young or middle aged, needing training but basically OK will be more.
Young, healthy, trained “turn key” will go for the most.
Adoption fees vary region to region as well. $400.00 is NOTHING in some places, especially for breed rescues. We’re damn happy to get that much for dogs who are graduating free of significant issues and with usually a good deal of training included.
As for what to look for…
-reasonable expectations from the rescue, both for the dog and the adopter
-a fosterer who is really trying to match the dog and owner and not just “move ‘em out, shove ‘em out, rah rah rah”
-justification for having higher fees than the local public shelter. I DO NOT believe that you can simply justify a higher fee because that is what the dog has cost rescue, or it’s what the rescue needs to make from the adoption of the dog. Higher fees SHOULD engender higher expectations from adopters, both in terms of what has gone into the dog since it’s acquisition AND in terms of the support given to the new pairing.
-is the rescue financially solvent? Are they a certified non-profit? Will they be there next week, month, year? Is their some oversight, someone with the needed experience to help determine when dogs are ready to go, or not?
In this case, the “just a few weeks in rescue” is a big ol’ red flag, IF the dog truly came from such deprivation. If so, 400.00 for a dog whose real issues are possibly not even fully known but has “potential” is a lot. A few weeks of fostering is almost certainly not enough. My last “untouched, unloved” dog did not even start to show his most troubling issues until he had been with me six weeks and finally relaxed enough to turn into the little monster I then had to tame.
Now, we do “flip” some dogs fairly fast. But they are the exceptions. Young pups purchased as unwanted gifts, healthy family pets with a well known, documented history who are left homeless due to deaths, illness or other personal disasters and hardships. A previous rescue placement which did not work out due to non-serious issues and who is already well known to us.
If you are opting for a fostered rescue rather than a shelter adoption, you are usually doing so BECAUSE the rescue takes it’s time and puts much more into each dog. Beware rescues that will try to sell you on a dog just to clear it from their program. A GOOD foster/rescue will be much like a good breeder in terms of wanting the best for both adopter and dog. That is worth a higher fee.
And as with looking for the right breeder, if it feels wrong, don’t do it. If it feels right, go for it. Our instincts are usually right, but we tend to ignore them.
Comment by JenniferJ — January 16, 2010 @ 7:35 pm
I don’t have a problem with the amount, either; in fact, I almost trimmed her letter to remove mention of that because I figured we’d get sidetracked.
Some 20 years ago, I ran a rescue group. We charged $200 for a young, healthy dog, less for those with health problems, or who were old (10-plus). For that, people got a dog who’d been fostered in a private home, spayed/neutered, vaccinated, heart-worm tested and came with six months of heartworm prevention. Mind you, some dog came in to the program with all the health stuff done. On those dogs — especially the young, pretty, well-mannered ones who essentially were a “flip” — in an out within a week or two — we “made a profit.”
But on others we spent much much more — not only basic preventive care, but fixing some health and behavior issues. Even at $200 a dog, the rescue never made a “profit” — and I well remember spending $2,000-$3,000 a year out of pocket to bridge the gap. That didn’t include my time, my gas or food bills because that was always a combined cost with my own dogs.
That was 1989-1991. So no, I don’t think $400 is a lot in 2010 for a rescue dog with basic preventive health care and fostering included.
Comment by Gina Spadafori — January 16, 2010 @ 7:59 pm
Great advice in these posts, and I think the person making the enquiry should take time to grieve. Less than a month may not be enough time to get over the loss, and to stop (perhaps subconsiously) comparing other dogs to Toby.
I know many of the people involved in local rescue groups in my city and knew what I wanted in a dog, so choosing the rescue and the dog were relatively easy. Look for a rescue that temperament tests before taking in dogs; thoroughly vets dogs before offering them for adoption (bloodwork, s/n, dental, etc); keeps the dogs in foster homes; is honest about any shortcomings a dog may have.
Spend at least a couple of hours with the dog in the foster home; don’t rush into a commitment that may run 20 years.
I don’t think $400 is unreasonable if the dogs from the rescue are thoroughly vetted. Dental work (for example) can be extremely expensive; what a rescue loses one dog that needs extensive work must be made up on another.
Comment by Social Mange — January 16, 2010 @ 8:07 pm
JenniferJ wrote:
Higher fees SHOULD engender higher expectations from adopters, both in terms of what has gone into the dog since it’s acquisition AND in terms of the support given to the new pairing.
Yah, ah, what she said.
However, for a mixed-breed dog or common breed, I still reject the notion that $400 is a reasonable adoption fee. A rescue would have to be doing some pretty advanced professional training to add that much value to a dog. That’s not training to mitigate behavior problems and make the dog acceptable for adoption — I’d want to see a dog very well obedience trained for that price, and significant follow-up offered. At a public shelter or pound, the adoption fee for a neutered, vaccinated dog will range from less than $50 to around $150. How is a rescue organization adding that much value to the pound puppy?
JenniferJ works with English bulldogs; a pup sells for several thousand, whether well-bred or not. And those coming into rescue are likely to have spendy health issues. I’d expect the adoption fees to be higher for such a specialized animal. Anyone who wants an English bulldog had better be ready to shell out for it, one way or another.
But a rescue that tries to “make back what we put into” every individual dog is displaying a disturbing hand-to-mouth MO. Making up the difference between the cost of all the rescues and the adoption donations is where fundraising comes in. If a rescue isn’t doing any fundraising and isn’t getting any donations other than for adoptions, then it is simply not solvent, and not likely to be making good decisions.
For the record, our adoption fees for NESR went up to $200 in the past couple years, and a lot of us weren’t happy about going that high. (In the case of English shepherds, this can be more than the dog sold for as an adorable puppy, given that the ones that come into rescue are disproportionately the pups sold out of a box at the livestock auction.) Most of those dogs have had a significant period of skilled foster care. We have no paid personnel. $200 no way covers our average cost per dog. As a national group and the sole rescue organization for a rare breed, one of our biggest costs is transport; adopters pay for transport to them, but we absorb the cost of transport to foster care. Sometimes we have a lot of vet costs for a dog; sometimes we have none, when a healthy pooch comes to us already neutered and up to date on vaccines. We fundraise to make up the difference. Some adopters kick in more because they choose to and can afford it.
Comment by H. Houlahan — January 16, 2010 @ 8:35 pm
Coming to the party late but adopting a dog may take up 6 months just like sitting on a breeders wait list may take up to a year.
Just to reinforce something… $400 for a rescue dog is not steep. Been on both sides of the rescue/fostering process and costs to vary quite a bit. Some dogs that get adopted within a few weeks may not cost that much to keep but all dogs were vetted with varying costs. Other dogs I’m afraid may stick around for months on end. I know of one rescuer that finally got one of many long-term lodgers adopted out after two years….her fee is $350. There doesn’t seem to be a way to recoup the costs 100% of the time.
Comment by mcappy — January 16, 2010 @ 8:45 pm
My last two rescues that have been placed….
2 1/2 year old male, only one health issue, dealt with.
Here for 3 months to work out his “kinks” I don’t think he’d been touched for over a year. Placed on the agreement that they will continue to work with a trainer we know in their area
Approximately 400.00 invested, food, neutering etc…
Adoption fee 200.00.
5 year old dog with advanced heartworm
Here for 7 months due to the severity of his disease.
at LEAST $800.00 invested even though much vet care was donated.
Healthy when he left.
Adoption fee 200.00, they later donated another 100.00
Current fosters
10 1/2 year old bulldog, dumped because new boyfriend didn’t like him. He will likely be here “for the duration”
If he does not rehome soon, I’ll adopt him formally and the bills will be mine
4 year old bulldog who had his neck broken. Probably about a year ago, never saw the vet. Thankfully, his bones healed but he needed surgery to remove a blown disc. Neuro specialist gave us a GREAT deal and he is recovering well but he’ll never pay back his care.
We rely on donations and fundraising. we would sink if we had to make it up on adoption fees.
I also occasionally foster and place toy fox terriers (two last year).
Adopted out for 175.00 each. Both needed only to be spayed so they were about break even.
Geography is a big determinate in fees. In California, most public shelters will charge 100.00-150.00 for a dog
Private humane societies and rescues are usually at least double.
In the Phoenix area, toy dog rescues sometimes pull in 500.00-600.00 a dog. and yes, bulldog rescue there gets quite a bit, which I do not feel is appropriate but I’m not involved with the group.
Comment by JenniferJ — January 16, 2010 @ 9:26 pm
comment eaten, not sure why!
Comment by JenniferJ — January 16, 2010 @ 9:28 pm
never mind, it’s a side-tracky comment anyway. :)
Comment by JenniferJ — January 16, 2010 @ 10:27 pm
I’m all about the pound: the local, municipal pound. The one in my town is awesome. Bounce, Lu, young Smoke — I rest my case. Smoke set me back a whopping sixty-three bucks.
Most municipal pounds don’t begin to have enough home-based foster programs for all their dogs, but many have extraordinarily dedicated workers or volunteers who are close to the dogs [and foster some of them] and can offer details on a pup’s behavior and personality. True story: about a year ago the most excellent Lisa at our local pound saw something special in a sickly, stray brindle pup, and she was there for him when he needed an advocate, and she saw to it that he got meds and didn’t get adopted by that irritating couple who decided they wanted to look at Chihuahuas, and as you can imagine I can’t thank Lisa enough. Visit your municipal shelter often. The right dog may not be there the first time you walk through, but it shouldn’t be too long before your eyes and his meet through the chain link and that will be that.
Rescues are great. But I will always, always go to the local pound first. And for the most selfish reason: they have the best dogs.
Comment by Luisa — January 16, 2010 @ 10:48 pm
“Rescues are great. But I will always, always go to the local pound first. And for the most selfish reason: they have the best dogs.”
I have to give props to Ukiah’s public shelter too. When we first moved up here, the pound was to be avoided at all costs.
Now with new management and facilities and a really positive attitude, I don’t hesitate to recommend it.
Comment by JenniferJ — January 16, 2010 @ 11:04 pm
Working with a rescue in NY I am aware of the costs that go into these animals. We are focused on getting animals out of high kill shelters in south carolina. We transport these animals after vetting to the new england area where they are adopted. The costs are certainly increased because of travel but we are performing a much needed service for these animals in a place where they had a 90% or higher euthanizia rate. We gave more than 500 dogs a second chance this year, Yeah! I know the cost of $400 may seem high and for that reason we charge considerably less however it is easy for us to spend that amount on a dog.
We do use fosters to house these dogs before we can place them, I agree with the comments in favor of the benefits of this approach…the time a dog gets to be in a family living situation having been in a shelter makes all the difference. You can see the change from the initial picture we get of them in the kennel and when they get into their foster home…there faces have more joy and happiness! The socialization of fosters in critical.
In the end adopting is the way and shelter dogs are grateful dogs ; )
Comment by @ucansavedogs — January 17, 2010 @ 5:29 am
I sorta scanned through the comments {grin} so not sure if this was suggested . . . you can volunteer at your local shelter as a dog walker and get to know a few dogs. Until you find “the one”, you are helping other dogs get adopted. It’s very rewarding. I wasn’t even looking to adopt a dog, but um . . . 8 yrs later we’re doing just fine, lol!~ :)
Comment by straybaby — January 17, 2010 @ 9:45 am
Couple of quick points for this propective adopter:
1.Remember that rescues with a 501c3 non-profit status need to be reputable businesses as well as reputable rescues. They will have an application process with reference checks and a contract that spells out everyone’s expectations. It’s the same advice I give to people looking to buy a pup from a breeder: expect to ask and be asked lots of questions. If that doesn’t happen, then beware.
2. If the fee or requested donation is too steep, ask if the group can work with you on the $$ in exchange for volunteering for them in some way. Whether foster based or “bricks & mortar”, all rescues appreciate extra help at adoption events, fundraisers, admin work, mailings, cleaning, dog-walking, publicity, etc. I’m really proud of the fact that NESR’s first and foremost criteria is that the dog go to the right home…not just whether or not that home can pony up a $200 donation. Our’s is strictly a donation and tax deductible to the donor.
3. Lastly, be sure you aren’t wanting to replace the dog you just lost; are you opening your heart to all the possibilities that a new dog might bring? If I were working with this prospective adopter, I would have a heartfelt conversation about the recent passing of their prior pet. What was the best thing about your dog? What was the worst thing? What do you wish would have been different in your relationship with that pet? What parts of the relationship do you hope will be the same with the new pet? Are you willing to discover the dog in front of you? It’s only natural to compare, but constantly measuring your new dog to one with whom you built a relationship with over many years is a lot of pressure to put on the new dog. And it doesn’t honor the memory of the dog for whom you are grieving. Sometimes working with prospective adopters who have recently lost a companion is as much grief counseling as it is adoption screening! And that’s OK too.
And, as someone mentioned, be open to serendipity! My Sparky (dog o’ my heart)is a pound dog. After months of bleary-eyed searching of Petfinders, I’d all but decided it must not be the right time for us. One last search of listings and there she was. She was not at all what we were looking for, but we were drawn to her nonetheless. Within 3 hours of seeing her Petfinders listing, she was in the back of the Subaru barking for joy. That was 10 years ago. Best $25 we ever spent.
Melinda
Comment by Melinda — January 17, 2010 @ 10:44 pm
I agree with a couple of other posters that it’s a really good idea to do as much research as you can on breeds that you think you are interested in. I think appearance matters more to some people than others. As a visual person, appearance is very important to me. But, luckily, with so many dogs looking for homes, I have never found it difficult to find a dog who I thought was beautiful, adorable, etc. and who also had a great personality and breed characteristics I was looking for.
We adopted two dogs last year. One was a three month old puppy who spent most of his puppyhood with his mother and littermates in a great foster home and the other a 4 year old ‘stray’ with evidence of having recently had a litter that was, sadly, never found.
First, our fourteen year old GSD and bedraggled rescue dog of unknown age and breed both passed away in a 4 month period. We decided we wanted a puppy because when we got our rescue dog from the local pound, we were told that he was much younger than he turned out to be and we didn’t want the to put the kids (or ourselves) through another death anytime soon.
When deciding what kind of puppy to get, I took our family situation—three boys, aged 2 to 13—and the amount of time we could spend on walking and training into account. Our beloved old German Shepherd, as wonderful as he was, took years of several loooong walks a day before he developed into a calm adult dog. I knew that we didn’t have the time we had before the kids to walk and train another GSD. So, we decided on small, but not tiny and fragile and not hyperactive. I started researching dogs that seemed family friendly and energetic, but not too energetic. I also knew that I loved the silkyness of spaniel fur and the sweetness of many I had met, but didn’t want the sort of exaggerated features of a cocker and was scared of the health problems cavaliers face.
Because I hoped to find a mix with some of the traits I wanted, I became a fixture on Petfinder. As I found dogs that I was interested in, I further researched breeds that I was unfamiliar with. Reading Terrierman, for instance, helped me to decide that we couldn’t handle a JRT.
It didn’t take long before we found the ideal puppy for us. He is a beagle cocker spaniel mix and he has been the most loving, affectionate, biddable little dog we have ever had. At already a year old, he’s doing wonderfully.
Our other dog, however, was a bit more serendipitous. During my research, I fell in love with sighthounds, but wasn’t sure if we could handle a retired racer, because of our cat and our two year-old. I found Tasha at the same shelter that the puppy, Milo, had come from (although he had always been in fostercare). I first met her by chance when I brought Milo in to be neutered. At that point, she had lived for 5 months in a noisy no-kill kennel type shelter. On the chilly day, a week before Christmas, that I first saw her she was curled up, shivering, in the corner of her kennel. When I called her over to the door she came, a little hesitantly, but she still came. She was shy and nervous, but friendly. Because I had done a lot of research about her breed(s)-she is a greyhound mixed with catahoula or bluetick hound and may have been bred to hunt coyotes in rural Texas-I thought that her reaction “fit”, both with breed traits and with having been in a loud kennel for several months. If I had been meeting a one year old lab, however, I probably would have looked for a different kind of reaction.
A year later, Tasha is a very sweet, loving member of our family who has adjusted well to our cats and the preschooler. She loves walks but probably loves our couch a bit more. Except that both are very loving, mild mannered dogs, I don’t think Tasha and Milo could be much different. While she is independent and has been a challenge to train, simply because she seems to have little interest in pleasing us in that way, I don’t know if he could be any more biddable. I think that their temperaments, however, probably have at least as much, or more, to do with breed differences than with their early life experiences.
Another point that I thought that I would make is that I think that people grieve differently. Some people need to have a new dog in their lives, before they feel like they can start to heal from losing the old one. So I don’t know if our adopter really needs to slow down in looking for a new dog as much as she needs to do more research into the kind of dog she wants, and which places she thinks might be most likely to provide him or her. I also think that she might as well visit all of her area shelters to see if she likes one more than the others.
I hope that this wasn’t too much information and I hope that it helps.
Comment by Eliblu — January 18, 2010 @ 9:30 am